Walking the Landscape
Central Australia is a land covered by walking trails of varying degrees of difficulty. Paths wind through the red dirt, cutting through the East and West MacDonnell Ranges, and snaking around the town of Alice Springs itself. At first glance, this land can seem harsh and impenetrable, but once you begin to read the landscape, you begin to find a way forward. Landmarks become clearer and it becomes apparent how people have lived here for eons.
Do we only understand the land we can
access? What is our knowledge of a foreign desert? Early European settlers
encountered hardship as they pioneered stations and settlements in the heart of
Australia. Of course, they were not the first people to discover the acres of
red that fill Central Australia. There are places on this continent that have
never been accessed by those of European descent. Two years ago, a bushfire
raged in the Tanami. Authorities let it burn. There was no way to access
the fire to put it out, and it was too remote to threaten any human-made facilities.
It blazed on the Tanami, sending off clouds of smoke until it burned itself
out. Out of mind, out of sight? Or a tempest not to be reckoned with because of
its very potency?
The short paths around town do not smolder
like a Tanami fire. They provide enjoyment for tourists and locals alike. The
locations differ. A cool, crisp walk might be from Flynn’s Grave back into
town. This path weaves its way from the site of Flynn’s Grave just as you leave
Alice and head out along the highway. It loops down behind the suburb of
Araluen and the back of Desert Park. Desert Park includes displays of birds and
live animals in enclosures and flora native to the Central Desert area.
This walk showcases the West MacDonnell ranges in their rust-coloured beauty, and
the path cuts through the arid grasses. It is flat the whole way.
A walk among the low hills at the back of
the suburb Eastside during sunset will reveal mottled colours of dying light
streaking the sky. Skirting around the boundaries of Eastside, this walk is
deceptively close to urban sprawl, although, in several places, houses are not
visible. A stroll to the top of the hill at Olive Pink Botanical Gardens will
give you a view over Alice and the spot on the ribboned horizon where the red
desert meets the sky. In winter, the paths at Olive Pink are a good entry into
the local flora as they criss-cross the gardens and take you on a red-pathed
journey through conservation areas that blossom with native wildflowers and
showcase local birds and animals.
The longer, more intense Larapinta Trail
provides a gateway into a unique landscape and climate unknown to many from
other parts of Australia. Split into sections it takes days to complete and
requires a physicality not needed in other, easier walks. The bush tracks at
the Telegraph Station are good for mountain biking and walking and vary in
length and difficulty. The Telegraph Station and the Larapinta Trail are both draw
cards for tourists and locals alike and are laced with natural beauty.
There are layers of life in Alice. In both
summer and winter, there is an indoor life – in one season, to keep out the
heat, in the other, to protect against the cold. However, in both instances, there is also an outdoor life. In summer, the walks must be shortened or done
in the early morning to avoid the heat. However, they are still stunning, and out
at Ormiston Gorge of Glen Helen, the waterholes wait for you to complete the hikes
so you can swim in the cold Artesian water. In winter, the water is too icy,
but the walks can be enjoyed throughout the day. These outdoor experiences are
part of life in Alice Springs. Alice Springs might be one small town in the
middle of the desert, but it is well worth discovering.