Waterholes in the Central Desert

After the rain which cooled the temperature, the heat is back. Outback waterholes are still full from the deluge, providing an appealing place to swim. With cool, deep water, they are tucked away across the Red Centre, small surprises in a dry land.

Both Jessie Gap and Emily Gap, 10 kilometres east of Alice Springs on the Ross River Highway, are often without enough water to swim. Of cultural significance to the Central Arrernte people, these sections of the East MacDonnell Ranges are part of the caterpillar dreaming story, which reveals how the landscape around Alice Springs was created. At Emily Gap, rock art telling this story can be found.

At the moment, the swimming holes at Emily Gap and Jessie Gap are overhung by trees and dimpled by sunlight. Residents of Alice have been seeking out such respites to escape the soaring burn of summer. They were this past weekend full of children laughing and dunking one another, in the most precious of commodities in the desert: water. 

Jesse Gap after recent rain in Central Australia

In the heart of the CBD of Alice, with burning pavements and scorched bitumen, it is hard to imagine that such a short distance from town these small gems lie. Yet Central Australia is more beautiful the further into the country you travel. You can be alone, but not alone, knowing that others have gone before and will come after, and see the landscape you are now viewing and feel the earth you stand on.

In life, there are always things that are unexpected. Sometimes it floods, and the pressure is hard to bear. Other times, it is full of calm water, lying undisturbed under the sun. And again, it may bring to the surface issues and experiences that need to be explored under the surface, diving down into the depths, to see what we are made of and what we have always been.

These outback waterholes will not stay full for long. The water will ease and swimming will no longer be possible. There are, however, other spots with more permanent water sources, which may drop low, but will not completely disappear. The focus of locals will switch to these places, rather than Jesse Gap or Emily Gap. But the memory of these two spots will remain, and next time the heavens open and bless the dry desert, locals will once again head out to try their luck. We remember the good times; they sustain us through the challenge, and we welcome them with open arms when they return, a blessing much longed for.