The East MacDonnell Ranges: The Yeperenye Trail

On the edge of the East MacDonnell Ranges in Central Australia, underneath a huge sky of blue, the Yeperenye Trail links Emily Gap and Jesse Gap. Named for the Yeperenye Dreaming of the local traditional owners, the trail is a solid 8km walk each way, best done in the cooler winter months. The stretch of the East MacDonnell Ranges is visible from the trail, which weaves through scrubby and tree-studded land. A short drive down the Ross River Highway, this walking trail is relatively easy if you have a moderate level of fitness – and plenty of water.

The views from the Yeperenye trail are exhilarating. It is possible to look out towards the distant horizon across the stunning folds of the Central Desert landscape. The trail is lined with native plants that have been used as bush medicine for thousands of years. It's well sign-posted and you can start at either end. Hiking with friends means you can leave a car at each end, allowing you to complete one way. If you want a challenge, hiking both ways is a good option. 

View from the Yeperenye Trail, Central Australia
View from the Yeperenye Trail, Central Australia

The desert scenery is iconic to this location, and once you reach your destination, if you are hiking after recent rain, you might be lucky enough to find water in Jesse Gap or Emily Gap. At the moment, there is enough water to wade into, and many locals and visitors are taking advantage of this unusual situation to see a red centre waterhole before the sun burns the water from the land. 

The road out to both gaps is completely sealed and an easy drive. Scrubs, trees, and carpets of grass race away from the bitumen, and the East MacDonnell Ranges where Emily Gap and Jesse Gap are located form a backdrop with green foliage covering their red surfaces. When it is a clear winter’s day and the sky is cloudless, the conditions for hiking are ideal.

Although this trail is relatively close to Alice, that does not mean it is crowded. It is clearly marked out, and deceptively close to the highway. While it is not possible to see the highway from most parts of the trail, the location is not isolated, although it feels that way when you and the landscape are the only ones around. It is a good place to go to be alone, but not distant. Other hikers you meet nod, say hello, and continue – and they are scarce.

One of the beauties of winter is that hiking these stunning trails becomes possible. They are found all through the MacDonnell Ranges and in all different degrees of difficulty. Both ways, the Yeperenye Trail will take you roughly 4.5 hours all up to cover 16km. It is therefore one of the relatively shorter hikes available throughout the season that is still a rigorous way to test your fitness. It is a good starting point before embarking upon the Larapinta Trail and other more intense hikes.